SHRIMP - A PRIMER

The reason is not important, but in 2005 I became obsessed with cooking as a type of therapy to get out of a severe depression….
And since I have forever loved shellfish, I dove in.


I’m fortunate to have access to a relatively inexpensive supply of shrimp, oysters, scallops, crabs and clams…. And my dad’s a bigtime fisherman.
[Note: ever wonder why the choicest seafood is often found in places like Kansas City or Atlanta or Chicago? It’s because, for the wholesaler, FREIGHT IS FREIGHT whether you are shipping select oysters or bait… and there’s more money on the ‘delivery’ end for the high end seafood.]
So - shrimp…. basically fat-free and high in omega-3 BUT ALL SHELLFISH IS HIGH IN CHOLESTEROL...


Now.... if you are gonna buy them, know the lingo. They are sold by ‘count’ - the approximate number of critters that make a pound.

10-14 count: huge, fairly scarce in my area, and mucho expensive - but wonderful stuffed with crabmeat and grilled…. 4 of these babies is a nice size serving

15-20 count: my favorite size for most of my recipes - I can get them off the boat for $2.75/lb with heads on and $5.00/lb headed (I get heads on because the heads make wonderful shrimp stock - see below) - this size is perfect for grilling)

21-25 count: perfect for creoles, soups and chowders and other recipes where they are served OVER something like pasta or for peel and eat as an appetizer/cocktail

26-30 - these are smaller and a pain in the butt to peel and devein - I never buy this size - far too much work……….. And there are even smaller sizes you could not PAY me to buy in the shells - the kind that you can put five in your mouth and have room for a cracker - LOL

31-35 - found quick frozen in super markets…. And in my opinion, totally without flavor

As for varieties of shrimp, here along the Atlantic seaboard, the Brown shrimp is the most abundant. Brown shrimp are also known as brownies, green lake shrimp, red shrimp, redtail shrimp, golden shrimp, native shrimp, and, in North Carolina, summer shrimp. 


The boats started coming in about two weeks ago and will continue thru late fall (assuming no hurricanes interfere). We can also hope for white shrimp, a/k/a/ greentails…….. These are nearly white with a green mark at the base of the body - more expensive than browns. I’ve had both, and while some people tell you the greentails are better, I can’t tell the difference.


When buying shrimp, the best choice is straight off the boat as they are being graded…. Iced down, you can keep these for 3-4 days. When icing shrimp, put the shrimp in a bag and put the ice on top and bottom of the bag. The two worst things you can do to shrimp are allow them to sit/soak in water OR to let them change temperature. 


If you are lucky enough to buy in bulk, get them in the freezer ASAP… and freeze them like they are - do NOT rinse, peel or otherwise handle them…. And don’t add water to the container you are freezing them in. I package mine in Zip-Loc quart bags, counting out about 1-½ pounds per package. And I keep them in a chest-type freezer, which prevents freezer-burn associated with frost-free freezers… Since most freezers ARE the frost-free type, double bag. Shrimp will stay quite nice for up to six months…. After that, you’re looking at soups or stews or bait!


When buying shrimp from the supermarket or fishmonger, ask to smell them. They should NOT have a fishy, strong odor….. And be sure you ask if they are ’previously frozen’. If they are, it’s not a good idea to refreeze them, so buy for immediate use. Always ask how fresh they are. Fresh shrimp shrink little, if at all, when cooked.


For preparation, thaw overnight in the refrigerator - then peel and devein up to 4 hours before cooking. HANDLE QUICKLY AND AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE AND DO NOT CLEAN UNDER RUNNING WATER. Keep them very cold until cook time…. Then rinse quickly and pat dry. That’s the final step in not letting shrimp change temperature! They should be icy cold when they hit the pot.


Use the whole shrimp! As I mentioned, I buy with heads on and I keep a gallon size ZL bag in the freezer for shells and heads. When I get a bag full, I make shrimp stock and then freeze THAT for future recipes. Don’t make a face! Shrimp stock can be your secret ingredient for may recipes…. Try it before discounting it - you won’t be sorry………… Here’s my recipe:

SHRIMP STOCK:

Place a gallon Zip Loc bag of shrimp shells and heads in a large pot. Cover with 3 quarts of water (4 quarts if you have heads)

Add: 2 TBS sea salt, two chopped onions, 6-8 stalks washed celery, including leaves and 5-6 whole peppercorns.

Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer - cook over lowest heat for about 30 minutes. Remove from heat and let sit another 30 minutes.

Pour thru a fine mesh sieve and discard veggies. Let stock cool and then freeze in 2C portions for later use (I use 16 oz Solo cups with a piece of Stretch and Seal over the top). Stock will have a greenish or golden cast and a divinely rich aroma. Stock made with shrimp heads is stronger than stock made with shells only - that’s why the extra quart of water listed above.

When cooking with the stock, use in lieu of water for cooking rice and pasta (or water it down if you‘re nervous!) Add additional salt to taste.